NYC Opera And the Blizzard of ‘06

EUROPE 2005 - February 28, 2006 2:45 pm

Once or twice a year, cosmic forces bring together a few of my Crazy Opera Girls, uniting us for a whirlwind weekend in some glamorous city. A handful of us comprise the ancient, sacred group known as the ‘Flamingas’ – named after that fine bird who saucily flounces around the avian world in a cloak of bright pink, thumbing its nose at the evolutionary idea of blending into one’s environment. From this human merging of pink feathered greatness, wondrous and awesome events occur!

Such a flocking manifested itself in the Big Apple earlier this month. Crazy opera girls Cindy (Virginia), Lin (New Jersey) and myself swooped into town, taking over the ritzy Millenium Broadway Hotel – right around the corner from Times Square.

BUT, I get ahead of myself. The trip really started smokin’ when I checked in for my flight at Frankfurt airport, and experienced a faaaaaaaabulous first: a RED (not yellow) boarding pass! Yes my friends, I had booked myself a *first* class seat for this leg of my flight, so that I could conduct important due diligence up in the front of the plane. My initial observation was that I was the ONLY chick in first class (HMMM!!). The second thing I noticed was the delicious glass of champagne, the fluffy down comforter, and a comfy polo-type shirt in case I didn’t want to wrinkle my traveling duds. Later came the caviar and accoutrements. Not bad!

Back to NY: we joyously reunited in the hotel room with bottles of delicious vino courtesy of Lin, many flamingo-themed party favors, and a LOT of noise! In a flurry of pink feathers, we donned our best babe-a-licious outfits & headed out to Devi (a chic Indian restaurant) on 18th Street for some VERY SPICY grub.

The many colorful brass-and-glass lanterns dangling from the ceiling at Devi were worth the trip alone! The service-with-an-attitude was distinctly New York (sigh…). Although my mouth was on fire most of the time, making it hard to converse, the heavenly Mango Cheesecake dessert put out the flames and brought us a few steps closer to God.

Saturday was the big day, with TWO star-studded operas awaiting our eyes and ears at the Metropolitan Opera. While Lin had to work, Cindy and I glammed up and cabbed it to Lincoln Center, getting in the mood with some Mario Lanza playing in the taxi. In my opinion, the Met has the most beautiful and unique light fixtures I’ve ever seen in an operahouse, which we duly admired upon entrance.

The first opera, a matinee, was La Traviata (Puccini), starring a luminous Angela Gheorghiu as Violetta and sexy Jonas Kaufmann (German dude!) as Alfredo. They totally wowed the house in this tragic love story. Afterwards, Cindy and I checked to see if we were on the backstage list. We weren’t. [NOTE: if you know you’re not on the list, just say you’re looking for the Lost-And-Found and you’ll go right in! A lesson we learned too late.] So of course we planted ourselves at the backstage door and waited for the stars to exit a short time later. I chatted with Jonas, a very serious and successful performer, who comes off like a good-natured surfer dude with his wild curly hair. Angela was beautiful and ALL DIVA, which of course I think is just wunderbar! We even got a glimpse of Anna Netrebko dashing by at full speed on her way to the evening’s performance.

We headed back to the hotel to gather Lin, grab some chow and drinks at the hotel bar, and head right back to the Met for installment #2: Rigoletto (Verdi), with the mega-hot duo Anna Netrebko and Rolando Villazon, and Placido Domingo conducting. The energy and excitement in the crowd were palatable, and NO ONE was disappointed. The sets were WOW, the singing was DOUBLE-WOW, the whole experience was sensational.

Between acts, I scored a VIP-lounge card from my seat neighbor, so we headed into the Baroque-style lounge to see how the other half lives. Unfortunately, drinks weren’t free and we weren’t serenaded by young, aspiring tenors. But the sofas were comfy.

I should mention a very important detail here. Right in the middle of our life-changing operatic bliss, entered the “Blizzard of 2006”, as the media coined it. Yes, a full-force, city-stopping, airport-closing BLIZZARD came barreling right through NYC. By the time the second opera was over, the snow was practically flinging itself out of the clouds and onto our heads. We exited the “back way”, where we could hail a taxi under an overhang, and secured our position back at the hotel. We popped the last cork of the day, put on our tiaras, and watched the Olympics in our PJs.

On Sunday morning , the city was under about 50 feet of snow, so it seemed. Airplanes had deserted the city and Cindy’s flight was canceled. Lufthansa put on a brave face and assured me over the phone that my 3pm flight would go, so I bid my fabulous girls farewell and Doctor-Zhivagoed it to Newark Airport. This was no small feat, considering the doorman had to trek several blocks in deep snow to score me a taxi to Penn Station. Once I arrived at the Newark train station, the airport lightrail was closed, so we all piled into a bus and were schlepped to our respective terminals. The airport was officially closed, only ONE food place was open (and PACKED), so I sat around reading Renee Fleming’s fantastic book – “The Inner Voice” (about her life as a soprano) for hours and hours.

Sure enough, our flight DID depart, and only a few hours late. Only 12 intrepid snow-adventurers had braved the elements, so the plane was empty! I later learned that Cindy and Lin made the best of the blizzard with 25th-floor movie theatres, apple martinis, and shopping! THAT’S MY GIRLS!

Photos follow:

Meeting Lin at Penn Station in NYC:
Lin in train station - lighter.JPG

There’s Time Square!
Time Square

Setting our mouths on fire at Devi Indian restaurant:
Cindy & Jen at Devi

Lin at Devi

Off to Lincoln Center:
Lincoln Center

Jen Fountain

Fancy lights:
Lights met.JPG

After the performance with Angela Gheorghiu:
Jen, Gheorghiu, Cindy

Cindy with German tenor, Jonas Kaufmann:
Jonas & Cindy

Later, back to the Met for Rigoletto & champagne:
Lin Jen Champagne

Villazon as that dastardly Duke…
Rigoletto - Duke big scene

Curtain Call with Villazon, Netrebko, and the guy who marvelously played Rigoletto:
Rigoletto Curtain Call

Gratuitous shot of the interior Met ceiling and lights:
Met ceiling

Feeling regal, but all worn out for the night!
Girls in Tiaras

This is what greeted us the next morning!
Blizzard

Yes, that’s me, searching a cab (or a snowmobile…dogsled…whatever!)
Dr Zhivago searches a cab

Goodbye NYC!
Bye bye snow

Barcelona – Love, Live, Eat, Shop!

EUROPE 2005 - February 15, 2006 12:50 pm

When I think of a city that lives in 4-D technicolor, with tantalizing flavor oozing from every dish – every musical note – every dance step….and mind-boggling architecture that breaks all boundaries ……. what else is there but Barcelona!! A proper visit to Barcelona has mysteriously eluded me for years (the closest I’ve gotten was a few opera trips to Madrid), but Soenke tossed me a small appetizer when he announced an overnight stay this month. Our evening there felt like just one sip from a glass of fabulous champagne… then the glass was whisked away when we had to leave the following day!

At about 3pm Soenke set down our 737 at the Barcelona airport…the air was fresh (if not quite “warm”), the people friendly and effortlessly fashionable, the mood decidedly light. The flight crew snuck a bottle of red wine onto the crew bus to get in the spirit of things. Our captain totally surprised me by bursting into perfect Spanish with the van driver – I was intrigued by the driver’s own exotic-sounding Spanish, laced with Catalan phrases totally unknown to me.

With time short, my goals were threefold: Strolling down the legendary Las Ramblas, sampling tapas, and soaking up a bit of Gaudi. Soenke’s understanding of the metro system and my painfully rudimentary command of the Spanish language eventually guided us to the top of Las Ramblas, where we soaked up the sun and recharged with cappuccinos at the gigantic Café Zurich. Wide-eyed tourists, chain-smoking locals, uniformed soccer players, mafia-looking guys in slick suits and sunglasses, small-dog-toting ladies with fur-collared coats, and even the rest of the Lufthansa crew were of like mind – chilling & people-watching on the corner occupied by the Café.

For those unfamiliar with Barcelona, Las Ramblas is a legendary boulevard sloping downward towards the marina – in the center area between the driving lanes is a wide walkway filled with street performers, bird markets, flower markets, and an international array of strollers. I chatted with a gold-gilded dude from Venezuela, admired the exterior of a Farmacia building, soaked up the fast-fading sun, and appreciated the teapot-reminiscent trills of the orange canaries in the bird markets. We browsed the famous indoor La Boqueria – an expansive food market selling just about every foodstuff available on earth. While the liqueur-filled chocolates were HEAVEN, the butcher area was entirely gross – with eyeballs, brains, tongues & other parts I’ll leave to your imagination. I guess I can admire the pride with which the butchers displayed their wares, but my soft side wondered how the cows & pigs felt about all this!

We passed the Teatre del Liceu – where my favorite tenor José Cura would be performing in his ever-popular Otello role the following week – he has an incredibly rich, dark, sensual voice that sends souls soaring and hearts aflutter all over operadom - but with his dangerous effect on the ladies, he’s not been a particular favorite of Soenke’s.

A sexy tango performance along the street caught our eyes and ears, but we were soon distracted by the Michael-Jackson lookalike who did a particularly convincing moonwalk to the tune of “Beat It”. Surreal, a little ridiculous…..soooo Las Ramblas!

It was about that moment that time stopped… I stopped… and Soenke groaned. There it was: a gorgeous, voluptuous, rich, passionate, wildly RED leather coat in a store window that just SCREAMED Barcelona! My eyes started spinning… I was trapped in its gravitational field… practically floating past pedestrians and potted plants towards the door of the shop. I could hear - as if underwater - Soenke’s voice in super slow motion saying “NOOOOOOO!!!”…. but it was too late.

I slipped euphorically in the door of “Nomar”, Soenke rolled his eyes and followed with a grin and a shrug…..the owner of the shop spoke beautiful English and draped my receptive shoulders with a wide variety of luxurious leather goods for the next 30 minutes. Of course, the red one in the window was IT. The shopkeeper’s father drifted in to re-sew each of the buttons for me by hand, dressed smartly in a sports jacket and tweed cap. My coat was then folded up delicately and laced into in a soft cloth bag for safekeeping. A small Visa explosion later, and I was the proud owner of ‘Barcelona In Leather’ ! Unfortunately it will take several months before it is warm enough to wear it in Hamburg, but until then I will slip it out of the closet for secret fittings in excited anticipation…

With our Las Ramblas stroll being an obvious success, we retraced our steps to the Barri Gòtic (Gothic Quarter) and explored its narrow, winding walking streets. Small galleries, specialty stores, and watering holes were aplenty – Soenke (who had caught the shopping spirit) stopped to buy a vibrant aqua-blue sweater. We found the famous “La Seu” cathedral and slipped inside its courtyard for a peek at the gaggles of geese, but unfortunately the exterior was completely under scaffolding. We consoled ourselves by indulging our appetites at a packed-out tapas bar (well, the smoking area was packed – the blessed nonsmoking area was empty save us!) Our waiter filled our table with chickpeas mixed with chorizo, roasted potatoes in aioli sauce, crusty bread, garlic mushrooms, and a tomato/feta/cucumber salad. Taste buds rejoiced; bellies were filled. I resolved to further the art of tapas-making back in our Hamburg kitchen!

Time was nearly gone, so we hopped a taxi to the eye-popping Gaudi temple, the Sagrada Familia. I was overwhelmed by its sheer uniqueness, beauty, even playfulness – all SO larger-than-life. I noticed that some of the secondary church spires were ‘split’ open at the top – as if a banana were being unpeeled – and colorful balls resembling Captain Crunch with Crunchberries, Trix, and SugarPops came bursting out of the top. Next time, I promised myself to scour the city in search of ALL of Gaudi’s delights!

We finally, and reluctantly, headed back to our hotel (the Princessa Sophia) so that Soenke could catch a few hours before his 4:30am wakeup call. I, on the other hand, luxuriously slept in and caught a later flight back to Hamburg… I certainly FELT like a “Princessa” when the hotel’s shiny black Mercedes whisked me to the airport the following morning for only 20 euros!

BRAVA BARCELONA! 

—————-

Soenke pauses at the top of Las Ramblas

Soenke on La Rambla.JPG

Statue or Man?!

Jen and golden friend.JPG

A beautiful building, brilliant sky:

Architecture.JPG

La Boqueria tempts the culinary senses:

Boqueria.JPG

A poster announces Jose Cura’s upcoming performance:

Otello playbilil.JPG

Dancers entertain the passerby:

Tango.JPG

LEATHER!

Red leather coat.JPG

Inside the courtyard of Le Seu Cathedral:

Catedral.JPG

Tantalizing tapas:

Tapas.JPG

Gaudi’s unfinished Sagrada Familia:

Gaudi cathedral.JPG 

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